His small talk may not be up to much but he’s excellent at hoovering up crumbs and leftovers. Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Always toast, in embarrassing quantities. Put in a colander with a generous sprinkle of salt, stand in a sink and massage the leaves with your hands until they wilt into a tractable mess (if you’re using frozen, defrosted stuff, just roughly chop it), then leave to drain. Serves 4. As Greeks tend to stick to a largely vegan diet during Lent, dairy-free versions of this dish abound: you could replace the feta with crumbled vegan cheese or tofu, but I think the pie is pretty delicious if you simply leave out the cheese and the eggs. Start with the wine base by steeping onion, carrot, celery, garlic and herbs, and reducing by half. The travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor – how could a man who walked from the Hook of Holland to Istanbul as the shadow of the second world war was falling across Europe be anything but absolutely riveting? Felicity Cloake Thu 9 Jun 2011 02.00 EDT M uch as I love mash , there's no denying that, in a game of comfort food top trumps, pasta would hold the winning card. The wonderfully awkward meals shared by Charles Ryder and his father in Brideshead Revisited. Photograph: Felicity Cloake for the Guardian. We don’t like cherries so I substituted dried apricots and bits of crystallised ginger. Not the lightest, more sophisticated or even coherent menu but it would make me very happy. Some of it, as you’d count on, is used to cook dinner the apples. Don’t be stingy with the olive oil, though, because you’ll need its richness. Spanakopita is a Greek classic: equally good warm from the oven or cold the next day, vegetarian-friendly (so long as you use a feta made without animal rennet) and utterly delicious, it’s perfect picnic fare, even if you’re not going any farther than your own garden. - Yotam Ottolenghi 'Such a brilliant book, funny, captivating and wonderfully written. Crack in the eggs and add the lemon zest, a glug of olive oil and a good grating of nutmeg, and mix again (again, hands are the best tool for this). Keith Floyd. The fruit had to soak in strong tea overnight so I set it going last night. It’s frustratingly hard to find in British supermarkets, but is usually available in greengrocers or markets – or in the freezer section, though make sure you get whole leaf, and defrost and squeeze it dry first. Most memorable meal in  film/literature/painting. (Confronting the greasy crumbs in the morning is always a joy.). Enjoy the classic Greek spinach and cheese filo pie from the comfort of your own home. Copyright © 2016 Bread & Oysters. - Anna Jones Wring out the spinach with your hands until no more water comes out (it should look thoroughly wilted by this point), then stir into the cheese bowl. Felicity Cloake's Tour de France is a triumph. Dreary food (‘white, tasteless soup, overfried fillets of sole with a pink sauce…’) and an atmosphere you could cut with a fish knife, made all the more hilariously awful by the honeyed atmosphere of buttered crumpets and plover’s eggs that precede them. Followed by my lethal rhubarb gin granita. borscht soup. Felicity Cloake’s One More Croissant for the Road is published by Mudlark (£14.99)  amazon.co.uk, Subscribe to keep up to date with the latest articles. As I said, I love toast. Read reviews from world’s largest community for readers. 3 Prepare the greens. Your top five dinner guests, dead or alive, Jane Grigson: one of our most underrated, and almost ridiculously erudite food writers. Mash in the tomatoes, then add the sugar, vinegar and stems of the basil, reserving the leaves, and bring to a simmer. Our twin bibles were the Guide des Relais Routiers and Le Guide Michelin I was taught French by French grannies armed only with Le Journal de Mickey. Brush a 30cm x 25cm baking tin with olive oil, then line with half the filo, brushing each sheet with oil as you go (a spray is useful here, if you have one); take care not to press the sheets down too hard, otherwise they’ll compact. In a bizarre reversal of the Goldilocks story, a couple in Siberia, spending a night in their holiday cottage, were disturbed by the sounds of breaking glass and the pitter-patter of enormous clawed feet. Try putting marmalade and English mustard in your next bacon sandwich. Felicity Cloake is the author of the Guardian’s long-running weekly column, How to Cook the Perfect…as well as having been the New Statesman’s food columnist since 2011 and the author of four books with Fig Tree. Most over-rated/ under-rated food/seasoning/gadget. This definitely isn’t typical though – I quite often just have toast, butter and Marmite. Like Felicity Cloake I spent many childhood holidays in France with my parents, though 30 years earlier and without tents. Treat of the Week: Coffee and Walnut Butter. He’d surely be good fun, and also very helpful at keeping everyone’s glasses topped up, My dog Wilf. Leave any excess pastry hanging over the sides. Leave to cool slightly, or completely, before serving. I’d like to pass something simpler on though; if you can make a decent omelette, you’re never more than two minutes away from a good, satisfying, and thrifty meal. Felicity Cloake is a journalist and food writer from London. Crumble the feta into the bowl. The A-Z of Eating book. Or, at least, overused: it’s become the default to flavour cakes and custards and other sweet spices, like my beloved nutmeg, barely get a look in. Cook 20 min. Butter, to spread. Spoon in the filling, level out the top, then repeat the layering process with the remaining pastry to make a lid. She writes for the Daily Mail, the Metro and Fire&Knives magazine and has a weekly column in the Guardian.She was named Food Journalist of the Year and won the New Media of the Year Award at the 2011 Guild of Food Writers Awards. 4-8 eggs, depending on hunger. By Felicity Cloake Published 24 Aug 2020, 08:04 BST , Updated 5 Nov 2020, 04:57 GMT For making the perfect boeuf bourguignon, Felicity recommends using cheeks and oxtail; they’re better than ordinary stewing beef. Felicity Cloake Wed 25 Mar 2020 08.00 EDT T he idea of there being a single perfect formula for vegetable tagine is as absurd as there being just one way to make a good chicken casserole. She really loves the country, the people and the food, but not in an over-romanticised way. That said, if you have chard, watercress, rocket or even young kale or nettles, substitute those instead (with the usual caveat about handling the nettles with gloves and care). Though Greek cuisine boasts a number of similar pies using a variety of greens, particularly the wild ones they’re so keen on, spanakopita traditionally contains spinach. Take off the heat, immediately stir in the spring onions, then tip into a large bowl. 1kg adult spinach, or frozen whole-leaf spinach, defrosted (see step 1)Salt1 red onion or leek4 spring onions2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing300g vegetarian feta, crumbled25g dill, chopped20g mint leaves, chopped3 sprigs fresh oregano, leaves picked and chopped 50g bulgur wheat (optional)2 eggs, beatenZest of 1 unwaxed lemonNutmeg250g filo pastryOlive oil, for brushing. Thank God I was able to set them straight in time. Spanakopita is a Greek classic: equally good warm from the oven or cold the next day, vegetarian-friendly (so long as you use a feta made without animal rennet) and utterly delicious, it’s perfect picnic fare, even if you’re not going any farther than your own garden. Her mince pie masterclass from last year … The same goes, in a savoury context, for black pepper. Trust me, you want me on your pub quiz team. Felicity Cloake is the author of the Guardian’s long-running weekly column, How to Cook the Perfect…as well as having been the New Statesman’s food columnist since 2011 and the author of four books with Fig Tree. It is full of greed and wit, jam-packed with priceless practical information, peppered with a sense of adventure and wonder. Not that I’d be trying to get them drunk, obviously. Roughly chop the herbs, discarding the woody stems from the mint, then add to the bowl with the bulgur wheat, if using; it’s not a common ingredient in spanakopita, but it does help soak up the liquid from the spinach, and it gives the pie a more interesting texture. If there’s no bread in the house, crackers. 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